99 Quotes by Garrett McNamara

It's a matter of facing your fears. Going where you're not comfortable, after you do it so many times, and you have so many heavy, heavy experiences, then all of the sudden it becomes normal.

Well, it was - big wave surfing was my job. And I had to accomplish some great feat every year. And we kept finding bigger and bigger waves until there was no wave too big.

If I'm physically feeling ready, then fear does not enter my mind. I don't let fear enter my mind.

And, you know, I think all of us surfers, our happy place, the place we like more than anywhere on the wave is in the barrel.

In other sports, you get to breathe if you make a mistake.

I broke ribs three different times.

If you get under water, you're at the mercy of our team coming in and getting us before we get another one on the head, and another one on the head, and another one. Or, we have to be able to handle it, and that's where our trainer and our coaches and our people who help us stay fit come into play, the other part of the team.

I can be sittin' at home in Hawaii and see the biggest swell of the year coming here and be so happy and just say, 'No, I'm happy right here.'

One of my favorite road trips of all time was here, in Australia, in Western Oz.