4 Quotes by Greg Noll

We grew up quickly, surrounded by guys eighteen and older, in their prime. They lived to surf, drink, raise hell and score heavily with women. I saw these guys going up and down the coast on surf trips, drinking and bagging girls, and all I could think of was ‘What a neat life!’

I’d love to say something heroic. I’d love to say we made history. But basically it was a bunch of guys parked around the Bay there, and somebody grabbed a board and went surfing, and it looked so good the rest of us guys said, ‘Hey, we got to get in on this.’

It took me longer to get through this site, than to get outside at Waimea.

I didn’t want to be like a punch-drunk fighter, going around and reliving the big moment...