26 Quotes by John John Florence
- Author John John Florence
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I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.
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- Author John John Florence
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When you start forcing things, that's when you get hurt.
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There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.
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I eat a lot of pasta. We eat relatively healthy. I don't eat fast food, mostly home-cooked stuff. Chicken. Salads. Stuff like that. Oatmeal for breakfast. A big dinner.
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That's such a common saying: Just be present, live in the moment. But there's actually really something to it when you really start to learn it.
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Winning a world title has always been the dream and ultimate goal.
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The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.
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I'd be in elementary school all week, and then on the weekend, my mom would take us to Kauai or to the Big Island or to California for a contest. That was really fun.
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You just keep doing stuff, and one thing evolves into another. Then suddenly it's like, 'Oh, wait, I'm here surfing against Kelly Slater and all these guys I grew up watching.'
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