[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"$feTjNW1g3bP6qc0Q9EO3x4cWYXA6IIo7RfBy-BJBaM1w":3,"$f4QC3UQIivMx2vOK5J7BM43qqhwF1YBPQfr0Vm-60WLg":16},{"author":4,"tags":11},{"author_id":5,"author_name":6,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"bio":9,"short_bio":9,"bio_jsonld":9,"slug":10,"image_url":9},36307,"William Finnegan","W",45,null,"william-finnegan",[12],{"tag_id":13,"tag_name":14,"tag_count":15},4151,"surfing",5,{"quotes":17,"pagination":82},[18,26,32,39,45,51,57,63,70,76],{"id":19,"quote_text":20,"author_id":5,"source_id":21,"has_image":22,"author":23,"source":24,"quote_tag":25,"commentary":9},3997454,"Mandela's political evolution was gradual.",7,false,{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":27,"quote_text":28,"author_id":5,"source_id":21,"has_image":22,"author":29,"source":30,"quote_tag":31,"commentary":9},3997447,"Inequality is on the rise.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":33,"quote_text":34,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":36,"source":37,"quote_tag":38,"commentary":9},3510932,"You have to hate how the world goes on.",6,{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":40,"quote_text":41,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":42,"source":43,"quote_tag":44,"commentary":9},3510914,"Hands folded under my chin, I drifted. A bruise-colored cloud hung over Koko Head. A transistor radio twanged on a seawall where a Hawaiian family picnicked on the sand. The sun-warmed shallow water had a strange boiled-vegetable taste. The moment was immense, still, glittering, mundane. I tried to fix each of its parts in memory. I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":46,"quote_text":47,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":48,"source":49,"quote_tag":50,"commentary":9},3510904,"And I saw surfing that day – by Leslie Wong, among others – that made my chest hurt: long moments of grace under pressure that felt etched deep in my being: what I wanted, somehow, more than anything else. That night, while my family slept, I lay awake on the bamboo-framed couch, heart pounding with residual adrenaline, listening restlessly to the rain.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":52,"quote_text":53,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":54,"source":55,"quote_tag":56,"commentary":9},3510888,"It was, once again, a glorious wave, with hues in its depths so intense they felt like first editions – ocean colors never seen before, made solely for this wave, this moment, perhaps never to be seen again.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":58,"quote_text":59,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":60,"source":61,"quote_tag":62,"commentary":9},3510870,"I copied out a passage from Lord Jim: “We wander in our thousands over the face of the earth, the illustrious and the obscure, earning beyond the seas our fame, our money, or only a crust of bread; but it seems to me that for each of us going home must be like going to render an account.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":64,"quote_text":65,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":66,"source":67,"quote_tag":68,"commentary":69},3510869,"Being friends as in writing letters was so much easier than being friends as in living together.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],"**The Backstory**\nWilliam Finnegan's quote \"Being friends as in writing letters was so much easier than being friends as in living together\" is likely a reflection of his experiences during the 1960s, a time of great social change and upheaval. As an avid surfer and journalist, Finnegan spent much of his youth traveling and exploring different cultures, often maintaining relationships through correspondence rather than physical proximity. His writing frequently touched on themes of friendship, community, and the complexities of human connection.\n\n**The Hidden Insight**\nWhat lies beneath this seemingly straightforward statement is a profound observation about the nature of intimacy and social bonds. Finnegan suggests that meaningful connections can be forged more easily in a state of temporal and spatial remove – through written correspondence – than in the intense, immediate proximity of shared living arrangements. This paradox highlights the tension between the idealized notion of close friendship and the often messy realities of communal living.\n\n**How to Use This**\nTo apply this insight today, consider cultivating meaningful relationships through asynchronous communication (e.g., writing letters or emails) rather than relying solely on in-person interactions. By doing so, you can foster deeper connections with others while maintaining a sense of distance that allows for more nuanced and reflective engagement.",{"id":71,"quote_text":72,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":73,"source":74,"quote_tag":75,"commentary":9},3510866,"I was a sunburnt pagan now. I felt privy to mysteries.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"id":77,"quote_text":78,"author_id":5,"source_id":35,"has_image":22,"author":79,"source":80,"quote_tag":81,"commentary":9},3510856,"Being adjacent to that much beauty – more than adjacent; immersed in, pierced by it – was the point. The physical risks were footnotes.",{"id":5,"author_name":6,"slug":10,"author_name_first_letter":7,"article_count":8,"image_url":9},{},[],{"currentPage":83,"totalPages":15,"totalItems":8,"itemsPerPage":84},1,10]