Try the cheese," said Leonardo. He was standing to one side, watching me.I shrugged and nodded at the man, who shaved off a sliver of the ivory-colored stuff and gave it to me. Again, nothing special: a pecorino, aged, but a good one. I could taste the sheep's teats, buttery caramel, earth..."Are you from up past Pistoia?" I asked. The man beamed."Yes! From San Marcello," he said."Thought so. This is pecorino di Cutigliano, yes?""Of course! The best cheese in Italy!

-Philip Kazan

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